Aztec Trek - Part 5 - On a Wing and a Prayer

Much like ourselves, the Monarch butterfly migrates each winter in search of warmer climes.  Every year millions of butterflies fly some 3,000 miles from Canada and the US to overwinter in the hills of Michoacán state in central Mexico, carpeting the fir trees with their bright orange wings. This phenomenon is one of the most impressive natural sights in the world, and it had long been on my bucket list.  So, this is where we were heading on the next stage of our trip…

Fortunately, unlike ourselves, the Monarchs have a much better sense of direction, as we arrived at the wrong bus station, on the other side of Guadalajara, to catch our bus to Morelia.  A mad dash across town – well as much of a dash as the heavy Guadalajara traffic and our trusty Uber driver allowed – we made it with seconds to spare!

After another comfortable journey, we arrived at our apartment in the old town, in the quaint little walking street – “El Callejón del Romance”.  As we lugged our heavy cases along the cobbles, the original name of the alley (The Alley of the Bag) felt more appropriate! Although having quite an “unromantic” origin as the location of a soap factory, it was re-named in the 60’s after verses of a romantic poem along with bougainvillea bushes were placed along its length.

As we soon discovered, it was now a popular spot for Instagrammers, bridal and quinceañera (15^th birthday celebrations) photo-shoots and a variety of snogging couples! Still, our home was central and clean with a large balcony overlooking the pandemonium below.

Morelia was a UNESCO World Heritage Centre and its picturesque cobbled streets were lined with over 200 historic Renaissance and neo classical buildings and squares.  We found that it was also home to a rich selection of amazing restaurants and bars tastefully crafted within the ancient walls and on rooftops. The town was surrounded by an 18^th century viaduct with over 250 arches, which was beautifully lit up at night.

We decided to take a trip out to another pueblo magico – Pátzcuaro, situated on a large lake and famous for its artisans who for centuries have created everything from copper pans, to musical instruments (in fact the Disney film “Coco” was based on this area) to amazing embroidered clothing. We had a glimpse of what this area offered as we drove through villages with shops selling wooden furniture.  After a brief visit to see the stunning painted medieval wooden ceiling in the church of Santiago Apóstol in the village of Tupátaro, and a cup of sweet atole (similar to hot chocolate but made with corn), we arrived in Pátzcuaro.

During the Spanish conquest, the indigenous Purépecha nation was persuaded to convert to Christianity (mainly by the Spanish convincing them that their two beliefs aligned on many fronts, including a “God” mother-figure…Mary??!).  But the Spanish bishop also encouraged them to promote their artistic skills and boost their economy.  This pretty town was full of interesting art and craft shops and a huge former Domenican convent called, for obvious reasons, The House of the 11 Courtyards. Now full of craft shops, it was a nice shady stop on our walk.  After a home-made ice cream in the town square, our guide took us for lunch at what looked like a “greasy spoon” by a petrol station, but offered authentic Mexican home cooking at bargain prices.  I tried the Sopa Azteca (tortillas in a spicy tomato broth), followed by a cheese stuffed poblano pepper with a bean mole.  I preferred the soup, but with explanations by our guide, it was good to find the courage to try the local cuisine!

After a drive around the beautiful lake and island of Janitzio  (apparently one of the best locations to experience Day of the Dead celebrations, where they really go to town with the partying), we visited the Christmas Craft market at the nearby town of Tzintzuntan (try saying that after a couple of tequilas!).  The multi-coloured decorations made from woven corn stalks were a sight to behold – and very eco-friendly to boot!

We spent the next few days at a more leisurely pace – and I even managed to find a wonderful beauty salon where I had a much-needed pedicure, and had my hair trimmed by a lovely trans person, Reggie, who spoke good English.  We had a good old natter, and “she” did an excellent job – I felt like a “new woman” at the end (as probably did Reggie!).

Feeling invigorated by my new look, I took myself off for a walk around the old town and discovered a fascinating museum (Instituto del Artisano Michoacano) displaying some of the wide range of crafts from all regions of the state.  They were setting up huge nativity scenes in the plaza, with life-size models of the holy family, using showroom dummies (which I have to admit were hilarious!), a variety of un-associated characters, and were erecting a huge Christmas tree with all the trimmings.  There was no way we were going to avoid Christmas this year!

I was so amazed by this spectacle that I managed to trip up a kerb, grazing my knees and smashing my phone screen.  Luckily there was a mall nearby full of mobile phone shops so I had it repaired quickly and cheaply.

Proving more difficult to arrange than I had imagined – at one point we were told that the butterflies had still not arrived – we found ourselves on our way to the El Rosario Mariposa Sanctuary – where we prayed that they had got a flap on and we could witness this amazing spectacle.

The sight of a few of the large amber and black winged beauties as we drove up the mountain gave us hope, and although they had not arrived in their millions, still, the air seemed full fluttering wings. They became more abundant as we rode on horseback (well, we are getting old now!) up through the pine forest.  As we clambered up the last part of the trail, we had to remain silent and were rewarded with the sight I had been anticipating. 

It was truly a magical experience standing amongst the huge pine trees surrounded by tranquillity and a multitude of butterflies.  Some had already clustered on the trees where they sought heat and shelter and would remain there until they had reproduced.  The males then expired after their long journey (bless!), and the hardier females would start their long journey back north in the Spring, where they would lay their eggs nourished by the milkweed plants.  The whole cycle takes some four years and several generations – what a feat! Sadly, due to climate change and illegal logging, the number of butterflies is also decreasing, so we are grateful that we visited when we did.

Morelia was an interesting base and we had enjoyed our short stay – especially the cuisine, although we could have done without being serenaded over dinner on our last night by a young singer who had obviously failed “mariachi” school…

Next stop:  Any port in a storm