Aztec Trek Part 11 - Ain't No Sunshine!

Put off by the party crowds at the popular resorts along the Gulf of Mexico, such as Cancun and Tulum, we were attracted by photos of the stunning inland lagoon of Bacalar.  Hailed as the “next Tulum”, its clear blue waters (apparently no less than 7 shades of blue on a good day) and laid-back atmosphere were looking amazingly inviting.

We’d rented a small house a few blocks back from the lake, with its own little garden and we quickly made ourselves at home.  The sun was shining as we walked down to the shore to admire the views – dozens of palapa roofed wooden piers surrounded the crystal-clear waters where sun worshippers could laze the day away. Kayaks and sail boats were gliding around the lagoon which even had its own cenotes hidden in its depths.

Like Tulum, it was a former Mayan stronghold, and although it doesn’t boast any ancient ruins, there is a large fort in the centre of the town, built to protect it from English pirates…aaargh!  The quiet streets offered a wide range of cafes, restaurants and bars, and had a slightly bohemian/back-packy vibe.

The name Bacalar, translates as “the place where the sky is born”, but disappointingly all it delivered for the next few days were rain showers and grey clouds.  Sadly, there was not a lot else to do that wasn’t based around the water, so we weren’t able to admire the multicoloured waters or enjoy this place at its best.

It did give us a little time to reflect on our trip so far, and we came to the conclusion that much as we enjoyed the Mexican culture and people, especially in the towns and cities that we had visited – the beaches and resorts were not a patch on Thailand’s, and I definitely prefer the variety of food there. Both the Thais and the Mexicans are very welcoming but I think Thailand has the edge when it comes to efficiency and infrastructure – they definitely seem have tourism down to a fine art.

We were very impressed with the buses in Mexico, providing a modern and efficient way of travelling across the country.  I’m not entirely sure why they have spent millions building the Maya Train, which is, once finished, going to connect various tourist destinations across the Yucatán Peninsula.  Our bus from Valladolid followed the tracks which looked very slick, but will be much more expensive than the buses, and checking the timetables on the operational sections, will not be much quicker than travelling by road! The environmental and social impact doesn’t seem to have been a priority (it has destroyed several of the vital cenotes in the area and displaced entire communities) – another example of poor planning and a sad disregard of the long-term effects.

We decided to try out an eco-friendlier form of transport and had booked a sail boat trip around the lagoon.  Again, the weather caught us out, and although the day started off bright, there was little wind, so we set off with the aid of the engine.  It was wonderful to be out on the water, but the storm clouds were gathering, and just our luck – the heavens opened just as we jumped in for a swim!  The captain pointed out some of the underwater cenotes, where the water suddenly changes from turquoise to dark blue, including one said to be cursed by a witch!  Maybe she’d put a curse on the weather…

In between the showers, we walked down to the Eco Park, a long stretch of boardwalk extending over the mangroves into the lagoon.  It was a very pretty spot to view the stromatolites (not a 60’s reggae band as I had thought, but ancient, living rock formations that are some of the oldest life forms on Earth).  The only other place I have seen these was in Australia. There were many signs warning of crocodiles which made us a bit wary, but apparently they are only “small” and pretty much only come out at night (phew!).  Despite this, many people were enjoying the water and there were very pleasant views of the lake bank which was strewn with waterlilies.

At the far end of the lagoon are Los Rapidos, a natural “lazy river” where you could float down in a life vest admiring the stromatolites and lush vegetation on the banks.  But once again, our plans to visit were scuppered by the dark clouds and persistent showers.

A disappointing week on the whole, but it has taught us not to rely too heavily on the weather along this coast and we consoled ourselves by watching the storm updates from the UK, and figuring that is wasn’t too bad here after all 😉!

Our next stop was the state capital, the coastal city of Chetumal, where we were to catch a ferry to Belize. Timing it perfectly to check in, we were stopped in our tracks as we approached the pier by the looming dark clouds on the horizon, and then by the port manager waving his arms to indicate there would be no ferry that day due to bad weather.  Partly relieved, as I’m not the best sailor on rough seas, but quite annoyed that our plans had been disrupted.

We did manage to find a nice comfortable little hotel a short way from the pier, and as (typically!) the afternoon had turned out quite sunny, we took a walk along the promenade. Not thinking we would be staying for very long in Chetumal, I hadn’t done much research on the place.  It was quite a surprise to discover it was a very clean and pleasant seaside town.  Going out for dinner that evening, we walked through the local park and were delighted to find it hosting a live performance showcasing traditional dances and costumes from around the country, accompanied by what sounded like an “oom-pah band”.  I love the fact that all Mexican music seems to be so up-beat and jolly!

Thankfully we awoke to the news that we had been booked on that afternoon’s ferry over to the port of San Pedro, and then on to Caye Caulker.  Belize, here we come… 🤞

Next stop: Belize it…or not??