You Can’t Spell Slovenia Without L-O-V-E

OK, I love castles, and Slovenia has them in bunches. Yes, we are going to see more great ones in Turkey, and I imagine Croatia has a few too. Slovenia though has nothing to be ashamed of in the fortification department. Here are a few that we saw.

Bled Castle- we drove around Lake Bled one day and saw this castle high on the bluff.

Castle Bled on Lake Bled

Castle Bled on Lake Bled

We drove about an hour outside Ljubljana to Sneznik Grad, or Castle Sneznik, for an hour-long tour. It’s an old castle, first built in the 11th Century as a security post near neighboring woods, but renovated under later ownership of a series of wealthy German and Austrian families.

Barbarians at the gate!

Barbarians at the gate!

One of those rare family shots

One of those rare family shots

Jenn and A.J. patrolling the grounds

Jenn and A.J. patrolling the grounds

So much beauty in one photo- can't avert gaze!

So much beauty in one photo- can’t avert gaze!

Ljubljana has a castle too, which afforded great views of the city. Here’s the city flag from the viewing tower.

Waving proudly high atop Ljubljanski Grad is the city's banner.

Waving proudly high atop Ljubljanski Grad is the city’s banner.

Bonus picture- unknown, unnamed castle on the ride from Austria to Slovenia (I think it’s technically in Austria).

I have no idea what castle this is, but it's really cool.

I have no idea what castle this is, but it’s really cool.

Croatia tomorrow!

Lovely Ljubljana

We’ve had a couple of lovely days in Ljubljana, which has brightened our moods considerably (it’s amazing what getting out of the apartment will do for our collective psyche). On Sunday we wandered around downtown, passing the stalls of merchants lined against the river and bumping into some sort of renaissance fair on the cobble-stoned streets and alleys, and followed that up with a walking tour of the city on Monday.

The kids enjoying a band outside. They were playing James Brown!

The kids enjoying a band outside. They were playing James Brown!

Flea market hawkers along the river

Flea market hawkers along the river

The Renaissance fair

The Renaissance fair

A.J. at the Dragon Bridge, one of several downtown river crossings

A.J. at the Dragon Bridge, one of several downtown river crossings

Ljubljana is not a large city (300,000 or so), so its historic area is quite small by comparison to Budapest or Vienna. Its charm though matches those, and is easily worth a couple days to enjoy. The center area is closed to traffic, and the pedestrian roads lining the river were filled with outdoor cafes and street markets. We really haven’t seen everything quite yet, as we’ve taken a leisurely pace to the activity list. The walking tour, a full 2 and a half hours, was excellent as well.

We learned a lot about the city, its sites and Slovenia’s history. The country was originally part of the Austrian empire for hundreds of years and then joined up with neighboring regions to become part of the former Yugoslovia. This small country become independent in 1991 following a brief 10-day war (nothing like the bloody, nearly four-year long battle in other parts of the former Yugoslavia, for example in Bosnia).

Someone lose a pair of sneakers?

Someone lose a pair of sneakers?

Flower sellers near the main cathedral

Flower sellers near the main cathedral

Another pretty street

Another pretty street

Beautiful day in the square!

Beautiful day in the square!

More details- what a neat manhole cover (never thought I'd type that)!

More details- what a neat manhole cover (never thought I’d type that)!

The Ljubljanska Grad at night.

The Ljubljanska Grad (castle on the hill above the city) at night.

In the afternoon, I had to swing by the railroad museum (at least until my camera battery died out), and saw a few of the residents there.

Some restored....

Some restored….

Some rustbuckets....

Some rust buckets….

And Christine (a Plymouth Fury)!

And Christine (a Plymouth Fury)!

We have one more full day in Slovenia, then we head south to Croatia. It’s been a great place to hang out for a few days and slow the pace a bit.

Sunshine in Slovenia

After two wet days, we woke up to a glorious day yesterday and decided it was time for a road trip. Not just any car outing, but a day in the Julian Alps! Our first stop was the small, pictureque town of Bled, which was about an hour away from our temporary home in Ljubljana, the capital of the country. Bled is probably the best known touristic area of the country.

Bled castle high on the mountain with a pretty little lake

Bled castle, built in the 11th century, perched on the mountain with a pretty little lake

I'm not sure why a church was built on this small island as it seems that would inhibit worship

I’m not sure why a church was built on this small island as it seems that would inhibit worship

Another view of the church

Another view of the church

Close-up of the castle

Close-up of the castle

The local residents were bored of the pretty sites

The local residents are bored of the pretty sites

Stop for lunch at a local park. The bakeries are great and we made fresh sandwiches (we found vegan salami)

Stop for lunch at a local park. The bakeries are great and we made fresh sandwiches (we found vegan salami)

After lunch, we drove into the mountains and in the Northwest corner of the country (near Italy and Austria), and they were magnificent. The drive up to the top of the pass took us through no fewer than 25 hairpin turns with a gradient as high as 14%. The mountains loomed up before us and there were dozens of alpine steams running off the mountains. Spring has brought the warmer weather and the snow was melting fast.

Even though it was a Saturday, we saw very few people up there, which reinforces my thought that Slovenia is a ‘hidden gem’.

Oh, the views!

Oh, the views!

It was just gorgeous!

It was just gorgeous!

The kids (and ugly doll Mrs Kasoogi) couldn't resist a romp int he snow.

The kids (and ugly doll Mrs Kasoogi) couldn’t resist a romp in the snow.

Our little car at the pass

Our little car at the pass

On the other side of the mountains, we followed a clear, blue river for a while

On the other side of the mountains, we followed a clear, blue river for a while

Clean and cold!

Clean and cold!

One of our pretty days yet!

One of our prettiest days yet!

There were a few little towns. One thing that surprised us with how close the houses were to the road.

There were a few little towns. One thing that surprised us with how close the buildings were to the road.

Slovenia is a small country and we’ve based ourselves in the the capital, which is more or less in the middle of the country, for a full week. From here, we’ve been taking day trips, as well as enjoyed a couple quiet days at home. This is the longest we’ve stayed anywhere for a while as our normal stop is about 4 days in a place. It’s been nice to unpack our bags and slow down a little.

A.J. holding us his last homework packet. We are nearly through our school work materials.

A.J. holding us his last homework packet in our Ljubljana flat. We are nearly through our school work materials.

Rainy Days in the Balkans Always Get Me Down

No, I’m not a Carpenter, but I’m a little down on the weather. Granted, I have no grounds for complaint at all: in 125 days on the road, we’ve had exactly one day spoiled by rain (we’ve seen very occasional rain, a brief shower here and there, but it hasn’t affected our plans). However, since arriving in Slovenia two days ago, it’s been gray and rainy; we have yet to see the sun.

So what to do when it rains? Head for shelter of course, which means caves!

We drove about an hour out of Ljubljana, the capital, towards the coast to the “karst” region, known for its large and numerous caves in the limestone terrain. We went to the Skocjan Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to their enormous size and scientific importance, and they were just magnificent.

Ready to go underground!

Ready to go underground!

The exit chamber- this one was small by comparison to others!

This chamber was small by comparison to others!

Inside one of the chambers

Inside one of the chambers

We had a long, 2-hour tour through some of the biggest caves on earth – the largest chamber open to the public was over 100 meters high from river to roof, and a couple hundred meters in length. The formations of stalactites and stalagmites were great, similar to what we’d seen in other caves around the world. However, in this case, it was the size of the chambers that was breathtaking.

A bridge over the river through the main chamber.

A bridge over the river through the main chamber in the water section of the cave

I’m sorry for the pictures. One disturbing trend in Europe has been the prohibition on photography by visitors (Schloss Schonbrunn in Vienna; the Terror Museum in Budapest; and now these caves). So I’ve been forced to be more discrete, with decidedly mixed results.

Fingers crossed that we get sun tomorrow! I want to see more if this beautiful country.

Austro-Hungary Area: 20 Cool Facts and Random Observations

1. The Austro-Hungarian empire, a dual-monarchy that began in 1867, was dissolved after WWI and the land was split up in several states: Austria, Hungary, Czechoslovakia and Yugoslavia, to name a few. It had been the second largest country in Europe.

2. Classical music is beloved in both countries, like perhaps nowhere else on earth. We attended a free outdoor classical music convert in Vienna and it was packed, mainly with young people!

Enjoying a classical music concert!

Enjoying a classical music concert!

3. The over-sized ‘Euro pillows’ that I use at home on my bed as decoration are standard pillows here. In addition, even on double beds, each person has their own duvet cover. I really like this system and Tim has no reason to complain that I keep the covers to myself.

4. Many residential buildings in both countries have built-in roll-down metal blinds that are on the outside of the windows. Very convenient for keeping out light and one of the first places on our trip so far where we’ve been able to darken the room sufficiently.

5. It’s official. I hate European washing machines. Many wash cycles take two hours, while some take as long as four hours! That’s just the washing. Dryers here are not the norm, so washing and hanging clothes to dry an be a two-day affair. The reward: stiff, cardboard-like clothing.

Most of the time we have at least a washing machine, but occasionally our only option is 'bathtub laundry'

Most of the time we have at least a washing machine, but occasionally our only option is ‘bathtub laundry’

6. The interior doors in both places have an extra “lip” around them (overlapping the door frame), ensuring a tight fit.

7. Bakeries proliferate everywhere! Croissants, breads, pretzels and the like are commonplace, and their products delicious (we did seek out and find vegan options).

Gourmet Pretzels

Gourmet Pretzels

8. Austrian trains are extremely prompt and very comfortable (plush seats, free wifi, video screens updating arrivals to the minute and showing connecting train info, restaurant cars, etc) and reliably on-time. The scenery was an added bonus – it was spectacular!

The rolling green hills as we were rolling on by

The rolling green hills as we were rolling on by

Little towns along the way

Little towns along the way

9. Many of the buildings in Austria are extremely old, some dating back 500 years or more. Of course the buildings have been renovated over time and, at least in Salzburg, it was common for the buildings to list two dates prominently in the front or under the eaves. The left one is the date of construction and the right one the date of renovation.

Street in Salzburg with some very old buildings.

Street in Salzburg – see the dates?

10. 62% of Austria’s land area is covered by the Austrian Alps!

11. The Vienna zoo, at Schonbrunn, is the oldest existing zoo in the world. It was founded in 1752.

12. Austria has a 6-month mandatory military service for men. Objectors are able to do 9-months of civilian service instead.

13. Hungary was founded in the year 896, before France and Germany, making it one of the oldest countries in Europe. Around 1896, to commemorate the founding a millennium prior, most of the current ‘historic’ buildings were constructed.

14. The Hungarian language is said to be one of the hardest in the world to learn. I tried to remember ‘thank you’ and had trouble with just the one word. It’s an agglutinative language, which means basically that you stick lots of endings onto words to change their meaning or grammatical function. (It’s nothing like the languages of nearby countries too.)

15. The primary spice in Hungarian kitchens in paprika and this is also the seasoning element in their world-famous Hungarian Goulash soup. We even bought some to bring home.

Check out all the chili peppers at the market! They are used to make paprika.

Check out all the chili peppers at the market! They are used to make paprika.

16. Budapest isn’t called the ‘City of Baths’ for nothing. Hungary is a land of thermal springs and is one of the few places where you can experience traditional Turkish baths dating back to 16th and 17th centuries.

Oh, the baths were an experience!

Oh, the baths were an experience!

17. Budapest originally used to be three cities: Buda, Pest and Obuda. Buda and Pest are separated by the large Danube River, with Buda on the hill side and Pest on the flat side. Budapest is actually pronounced “Budapescht”.

18. Be mindful to keep an eye on the sidewalks while admiring the stunning architecture. We noticed in Budapest that people need to learn to pick up after their pets. Yes, I learned that one the hard way!

19. For the Summer Olympic Games, Hungary has the sixth highest gold metal total in history. The country only has 10 million people, so this is pretty remarkable!

20. Hungarians invented the ballpoint pen, the Rubik’s Cube and holography.

Bonus Point: No child discounts in Hungary for the Metro or the Szechenyi Baths. This is the FIRST time we’ve had to pay full price for the kids since our trip began!

Hungary for More

I have really enjoyed our 3 day side trip to Budapest. There is much to like about the city, and our visit leaves me interested to see more of the country at some point in the future.

The view out the window of our flat - great location!

The view out the window of our flat – great location!

There is a great deal of history and culture; it’s seen more than a few invasions and changes of rulers, each of whom has brought a little something to the country. In fact, they still bake bread in the shape of a crescent moon to commemorate the overthrow of the Turks in the late 1600’s (literally eating the Turkish symbol).

Charlie about to munch on the Turkish invaders (ok, it's a metaphor).

Charlie about to munch on the Turkish invaders (ok, it’s a metaphor).

Christian memorial

Christian memorial

Parliament Building

Parliament Building

Soviet Monument

Soviet Monument is in an unusual location, with the Reagan statue (out of sight) on the left and the heavily fortified US Embassy (the building visible on the right).

View north to Castle Hill

View north to Castle Hill

The people were very nice to us. That isn’t so unusual, but it’s welcome nonetheless. There is also (seemingly) widespread English spoken.

Tomas, our bike tour guide, explains that we are going to turn left at the Opera House.

Tomas, our bike tour guide, explains that we are going to turn left at the Opera House.

Great walking tours all over. The city is very walkable, especially downtown.

A.J. and I walked to St. Stephen's church.

A.J. and I walked to St. Stephen’s church.

The Grand Market, where we all walked one morning.

The Grand Market, where we all walked one morning

I walked to the Chain Bridge one evening.

I walked to the Chain Bridge one evening

The architecture is amazing. Yes, a lot of the buildings had to be rebuilt after the Second World War, but have been done in earlier styles and thus avoided the Communist block architects (fortunately).

Random building

Random building

Random building

Random building

Random street

Random street

More random buildings on the Danube.

More random buildings on the Danube

Maybe it’s because I’ve never really done the Europe by rail trip that is fairly common, but I really enjoyed our short stay with the Hapsburgs, and would do this again in a heartbeat.

Sorry to see this go

Sorry to see this go… ’til next time

The Terror Museum

I went to the “Terror Museum” in Budapest today (without the kids, of course). The address, 60 Andrassy Utca, is apparently enough to spook Hungarians of a certain generation, as that building housed both the Nazi and Soviet/Communist secret police bureaus for Budapest. Given that I have read (and continue to read) a lot about life behind the Iron Curtain (Anne Applebaum has written a couple of books I’ve recently enjoyed), I wanted to tour this site and get a small psychological sense of what the locals went through.

The outside of the museum

The outside of the museum

Photographs are not allowed, but I thought in honor of the 1956 Budapest uprising I would sneak a few pics (everyone who knows me knows what a subversive I am).

A T-52 tank in the foyer; the military was the unspoken threat to citizenry.

A T-52 tank in the foyer; the military was the unspoken threat to citizenry.

I have to admit it was very well done, and the guidebook I had on hand (Rick Steves) for Budapest did a very nice job covering the museum (it has a room by room description of the place). One description that did resonate regarded the prison cells in the basement, some of which face the busy street outside. The book aptly describes hearing the rumble of passing traffic from the cells, the sound of the outside world so close and yet so far for the prisoners, many of whom would be executed just down the hall.

Replica voting booths, where 98% "freely" voted for the Communists.

Replica voting booths, where 98% “freely” voted for the Communists.

Soviet Russia advisors' office

Soviet Russia advisors’ office

A room about various "show trials".

A room about various “show trials”.

The underground cell block

The underground cell block

The museum set a sober atmosphere with the industrial music, the video speeches (which just sound totalitarian) and the crazy “everything is normal except you should be paranoid” feel of the place. The book also made a great point, that the museum can be seen as part of Hungary’s healing process, reconciling its very troubled 20th century existence.

Symbolic chains outside the museum

Symbolic chains outside the museum- some would call it an.. “Iron Curtain”.

We are fortunate in the West to have never experienced anything like what many countries in Eastern Europe were put through by the crooks and thugs who ran their countries for so long.

Ronald Reagan statue with Parliament in the background. Guess who won the Cold War? That's right, uh huh, we did!

Ronald Reagan statue with Parliament in the background. Guess who won the Cold War? That’s right, uh huh, we did!

B(udap)est Mother’s Day Ever?

Okay, that’s probably a stretch. However, we did do a few things today in honor of Jenn that she holds dear to her heart:

lounging, bathing, eating

(oh, and family time)

This Mother’s Day finds in Budapest, Hungary, astride the Danube river after a short train trip from Vienna yesterday. We got a late start to our day as we slept in and then didn’t leave the apartment almost noon. Weather cooperated again, so our planned outdoor activity was a go. The forecast has been threatening rain every day for more than a week, but it’s never actually materialized. We’ve been very lucky with the weather for our entire trip, having experienced only one “rain out” in nearly 120 days (that was in Dunedin, New Zealand, in March).

We piled into the M-1 Metro line and headed out to the Szechenyi Baths. We had read a bit about this concept, and it’s pretty big in Hungary apparently. It’s a series of outdoor and indoor pools, most of which have heated water, in a giant complex…. well, I’ll let the photos do the talking.

The Szechenyi Baths

The Szechenyi Baths

Happy Mother's Day

Happy Mother’s Day

It's a huge area

It’s a huge area

We ate snacks off to one side

We ate snacks off to one side

It was a pretty impressive place, to say the least. It was large enough that even on a Sunday it wasn’t too crowded. I never felt like I was short of space. It’s run pretty well, with lockers for use as part of the admission fee (the cabins were all gone by the time we got there). We brought towels and food to go with their snack bar’s offerings, so we just kicked back and floated the afternoon away.

If that isn't contentment, I don't know what is.

If that isn’t contentment, I don’t know what is. The warm water pool is about 94F.

Jenn and A.J. enjoying the day.

Jenn and A.J. enjoying the hot water pool (about 100F)

Some parts of the pools had jets of water that spouted periodically, creating a bubbly effect. There was also a circular pool with current that the kids loved.

Jenny and the Jets!

Jenny and the Jets!

After getting some sun and our fill of the water, we headed home for a bit, before heading out for dinner.

Bye bye baths

Bye bye baths

For dinner, we walked up to a vegan restaurant, Napfenyes Etterem, Jenn had picked out. We had a nice meal followed by a walk back through the streets to our apartment.

Mom and Charlie getting ready for some vegan food.

Mom and Charlie getting ready for some vegan food. The goulash was amazing!

Sunset at a church near our apartment

Sunset at a church near our apartment

While probably not the best Mother’s Day ever, I think Jenn had a good time being fed and pampered in Hungary!

There’s Fun for Everyone in Vienna

In our final two days in Vienna, we visited the Kunsthistorisches (Fine Arts) Museum, took the children to an amusement park and strolled around the city. We try to mix up our days between cultural outings and fun excursions to keep it fresh and interesting.

Museum District

Museum District

One thing we’ve noticed is that we are very much back on the tourist track. Even though May is still the shoulder season in Europe – not as busy as it will be in a month or two – there were still tourists everywhere. Most of our spots in Asia were relatively devoid of tour groups (and certainly free of large hop-on & hop-off buses), but it appears that we’ve joined up with the masses who have come to appreciate Europe’s finest.

The main staircase inside

The main staircase inside

Wow!

Wow!

Paintings everywhere!

Vast rooms and paintings everywhere

The museum was simply amazing. The building was spectacular with high ceilings painted with murals, lots of polished stone floors and columns, and walls filled with awe-inspiring paintings and sculptures. When we were planning our trip last year, Charlie said that she wanted to see a painting by Vermeer (there are only 35 such paintings in the world) as she had just read a book called Chasing Vermeer. Vienna was our only option, and Vermeer’s The Art of Painting didn’t disappoint.The kids marveled over the depth shown in the painting. We also saw treasures by Rembrandt, Titian, Velasquez, Rubens and more.

A Rare Vermeer!

A Rare Vermeer!

The Prater, said to be the oldest amusement park in Europe, was another fun day out for the kids. The rides, though expensive, were an enjoyable diversion and we went back the following day to let the kids run around at a playground.

This one was kinda scary!

This one was kinda scary!

Playground Fun!

Playground Fun!

We were fortunately to have a family friend, Mel Best, in Vienna and she joined us for some of our activities. She’s been in Vienna for a couple years and she knows her way around like a local now!

A rare treat: vegan icecream!

A rare treat: vegan ice cream! Mel has her own Starbucks treat.

A few last things from our walk around town:

St. Steven's Cathedral in the center of Vienna

St. Steven’s Cathedral in the center of Vienna

Stain glass reflected beautifully inside the cathedral

Stain glass reflected beautifully inside the cathedral

Fountains and statues are founds in various nooks in the city

Fountains and statues are found in various nooks in the city

At the Hopsburg

At the Hofburg Palace

Austria was a much needed morale booster at this point in our trip. I have to admit that was nice to be in a first world country again and we welcomed the change in scenery and activities. Next stop: Budapest, Hungary, a last minute addition to our schedule!

Austria: Land of Tasty Carbs

Austria has a lot going for it as a place to visit or live. One thing is that they have mastered the art of producing delicious things from grain, of which we availed ourselves on many occasions.

There is bread, in all its wondrous forms:

Pretzel stand in Salzburg- they had chili pretzels!

Pretzel stand in Salzburg- they had chili pretzels!

Yes, A.J. enjoyed them immensely.

Yes, A.J. enjoyed them immensely

The Waldherr Backerei, where Jenn and Charlie found vegan baked treats.

The Waldherr Backerei, where Jenn and Charlie found vegan baked treats

And then there is beer, in all its glorious deliciousness:

I had to have a Budweiser (from Czech Republic, not St. Louis).

I had to have a Budweiser (from Czech Republic, not St. Louis)

Marzen from the Weiden Brau pub around the corner from our Vienna apartment. Fabulous!

Marzen from the Weiden Brau pub around the corner from our Vienna apartment. Fabulous!