Aztec Trek - Part 2 – Dancing in the Street

Our final trip of the week was to the Casa Azul (Blue House) birthplace and home of the famous, outspoken Mexican artist, Frida Khalo.  Set in the bohemian neighbourhood of Cayoacan, we strolled along leafy cobbled streets, lined with historic colonial buildings, many converted into museums or cafés.  The nearby square sported a striking fountain containing the figures of two coyotes, after which I guess the neighbourhood was named.  Surrounding the square was a large colourful street market selling all kinds of things including the traditional sweet Day of the Dead loaves, sugar skulls and floral Catrina headbands.

The museum housed a fascinating collection of Frida’s personal belongings including a recently discovered cache of clothing which had been specially designed and adapted to accommodate the artist’s disabilities.  She contracted polio at age 6, making her right leg shorter than the other, plus she was badly injured in a tragic tram accident in her teens, breaking her spine and collarbone and leaving her in pain and bedbound for much of her life.  The strappings and corsets she adopted, along with her distinctive style, became the inspiration for many famous designers such as Jean Paul Gautier (encouraged by Madonna who admired the artist’s work).

The big day had arrived, and we travelled to the Reforma early to get our faces painted for the parade (well…in for a peso…!).  The route was already thronging with vendors selling popcorn, drinks, umbrellas, fold up stools and other necessities.  After quenching our thirst at a lively local bar, we found our viewing spot.  I’ll let my photos tell the story, suffice it to say, we weren’t disappointed.  Over 1000 elaborately costumed dancers and floats took to the street, with singers and marching bands entertaining us for over an hour.  An experience I’ll never forget and one ticked off from the bucket list…

We followed the crowds (and the parade) back to the Zocolo which sported the huge, now completed and illuminated skeletons and calaveras, but we couldn’t move amongst the crowds so made our way back, exhausted but elated.

Removing the face paint that evening proved harder than expected however, and I resigned myself to walking around looking like Alice Cooper for the next few days!

A late start after the exertions of the previous day, as we slowly explored the trendy café culture of the nearby Condesa neighbourhood.   We revisited the parade route for a last look at the colourful alebrijes and found the Reforma remained closed to traffic, and the wide tree-lined avenue was instead open to skateboarders and cyclists.  Lacking the energy for a bike ride, we weaved around the two wheeled traffic, and found a lunch place serving huge healthy sandwiches and salads – a nice change from the highly calorific Mexican fare we’d been consuming since we arrived!

Our good intentions were however ruined later that afternoon, when we discovered Regina, a pedestrianised street full of student bars (and some amazing street art – which was of course the primary reason of our visit!!).  The drinks here came in 2 litre jugs, but luckily, were not particularly strong, and I managed to walk home without too much trouble.

All in all, I really enjoyed Mexico City.  Although hectic in parts, it was relatively clean and safe and had a charm and relaxed atmosphere lacking in most large capitals.  The people seemed genuinely friendly and the food and drinks were pretty reasonable too. 

Our final hours here were spent exploring the Condesa area in more depth and we enjoyed strolling down the shady esplanades, lined with multi-coloured California-Colonial and Art Deco style buildings. It reminded me a little of San Francisco, minus the hills!  All roads led to the leafy Parque Mexico, which contained a large duck pond, a massive semi-circular pergola dedicated to Charles Lindbergh, and an “audiorama” – a peaceful haven with comfortable chairs, chill out music and even a small library!  We reluctantly managed to drag ourselves away for our evening flight…

Next stop:  “Out” and about in Vallarta!